2022 CFMOTO 650 GT SPECS AND REVIEWS

With the Smart-Tune-X performance chip, you can boost the performance level potential of your CF Moto 650NK and say goodbye to lean factory programming. Our CF Moto 650NK fuel programmer will increase pony by 17% across the entire RPM range while decreasing fuel consumption. This remapper chip connects to the ECM via the engine sensors and calibrates the most accurate fuel tune. A massive amount of potential horsepower lurks in your engine, just waiting to be unleashed with our Smart-Tune-X fuel programmer. With the Smart-Tune-X fuel tuner, you can put an end to the restrictive stock settings.

Get it here:

CF Moto 650NK MAGNUM Smart-Tune Motorcycle Fuel Tuner Performance Module (magnumtuning.com)

GPR line homologated for Cf Moto 650 NK 2021-2022.
It comes with everything you need to install it on your bike without making any modifications.
Approval in Europe and Switzerland (CEE).
The catalyst is already present.
It comes with a detachable Db-Killer.
Made entirely in Italy.
Warranty period of two years.

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Exhaust GPR Cf Moto 650 NK 2021-2022 (m4tuning.com)

When I got my bike I thought that for a LAMS bike it has an awful lot of power.
Cerainly enough to get a leaner into deep troubles.
But then a again I have my license for over 30 years now, so….

Unlike the previous CF650 models there now is a proper Bosch ECU ticking under the seat, bye bye Ducati….
Now, just to be clear here: I am talking about the CF6503 model, the MT with the Bosch cf650-7 ECU.
If yours is different thinks might not work as I experienced them, so beware of this little detail.

Calling one official dealer after the other I got very mixed responses.
Most simply say that they don’t have the eqippment to derestirct the bike, some say I would need a new ECU.
However, the few that are actually open to this or sell the unrestricted version alongside the LAMS bike say different things.
Appearnetly there is ECU flashing done for the LAMS bikes.
Instead they come with a throttle limiter and in some case different O2 sensors.
The actual limiting is done mostly by the TPS sensor readings and two restrictors in the air box.
With those changes the connected laptop does not a reflash but a reset of ECU parameters.
The Bosch system inside the ECU does the rest based on the fuel maps.

Ok, but I did not understand a single word….
LOL
It besically means that for the normal operating parameters the ECU already has what it needs to make the bike run at full power.

There are some downsides though that I will explain while I go along.
In most cases we want not just more power but also a new exhaust so our bike does not look like every other one.
And, no surpise, a slip on does not cause any error codes to flash on your dash.
But remove this limiter and sooner or later you see it blinking.
What happened?
The bike runs better with the slip on but also has far less back pressure now, means it can breathe out easier.
As a result the O2 sensor can’t really find a suitable match and causes the eCU to go into limb home mode.
Turn the bike off for a moment or start it again the next day and enjoy awesome power once more until it starts blinking.
Now the obvious solutions it to remove the restrictors for the airbox now.
And suddenly you get even more error codes, more troubles….
Sounds familiar? LOL
Now why would fixing one issue cuase a whole heap of new ones??

Consider the fuel mapping in the ECU !
It relies on input from our sensors to provide a match.
Toss it too far either way and there isn’t anything defined – hence the need for a decent re-mapping or unristricted ECU – or maybe not?
If the are not really flashed with anything to limit the power then why would we need something like a flash to get it going??
As said, there is two types of O2 sensors available to fit, if you get constant O2 errors then simply replace your AU type sensore with the standard, international one from Alibaba or so.
The “limited” O2 sensor simply won’t provide an output for the higher flow rates but the fuel mapping goes a good bit further 
The real culprit is quite often the TPS sensor on the left side of the throttle body.
For obvious reasons it will be adjusted to best suit the little metal thingy stopping our throttle.
On the plug, if you look at it while connected to the sensor, the left wire is ground, the middle one is your signal.
With the ignition on and the throttle at idle you should get a reading of 0.4 to 0.65 Volt here.
At full throttle you should not get more than 3.4 Volt!!!
Ideally you want 0.4V at idle and just around 3.2V at full throttle.
Like that your ECO should no longer throw out error codes.
If you start this procedure while already having ongoing error codes it is best to diconnect the battery for a while and to start from scratch.
Don’t scream!!! I mean by only allowing ONE mod to be present when you start the bike up 
If that does not give you errors on a test ride go ahead, otherwise keep returning to stock until the rrors are gone or until you found the faulty sensor!!

How do I adjust the TPS senosor if I can’t match both end values?
Again, keep the fuel mapping in mind!
How does the TPS readin correspond to the fuel mix?
Right! The more you open the throttle the more fuel you get.
And that ratio MUST match what the O2 sensor reading provide.
If any of these three values go outside specs in the fuel mapping, trouble will follow.
So if in doubt prefer a richer mix at the top end over one that is too lean.
You can get away with wasting fuel but not with exceeding operating temps in your cylinder and head 
A few possible examples to make the decision easier:
I means idel, F means full throttle for the gas grip 
and the reading are in Volt of course.

I : 0.9V F : 2.8V
You have a clear problem with your TPS sensor if you have the limiter removed for these values.
I suggest to try a new TPS senors first as these values are outside of what can be adjusted.
I : 0.3V F : 3.2V
Try to adjust the sensor so you get 0.4 to 0.42V at idle.
If the full value is still below 3.4V then leave it.
I : 0.3V F : 3.4V
Here you don’t want to change anthing unless you get errors.
Problem is that you will need to fiddle around for a while to check if lowering the vlaues cures the error or if you can go over the 3.4V to allow for a richer fuel mix the lower end.
Usually if you errors start when you really crank it up you want to go lower and if you get errors from idele to lower mid range you want to go up.
I : 0.6V F : 3.7V
You won’t see these too often but if you do and you get no errors then be happy.
If you do get errors you should lower the values to get at least under 3.4V for full.

I think you got the general idea now.
Once this works without errors you can try to allow for you other mods again, one by one.
There is an awful lot of 650’s out there that won’t require a remapping or complete flash!
But if you opt for more than what the international model has by default you have to consider a remap !

Troubleshooting….
Your bike was running fine and with no errors being stock standard.
This is what I always have to assume first here!
And if a simple slip on already created errors I would recommend checking if leaving the baffles and silencers in works 
Because if it does it means your slip on won’t provide the required back pressure.
There is ways to address this but that’s another topic.
So we agreed on these terms and say your trouble started after removing the limiter.
Check the TPS readings and if not within 0.4 and 3.4 adjust the seonsor accordingly, if that does give usuable readings consider replacing the sensor.
With all fine on the TPS and still errors flashing that won’t stop after disconnecting the battery:
How do your O2 senors look?
If black or covered in a fine layer layer of crap please replace if your error codes indiacte overheating or O2 problems.
In case the O2 sensor is not the problem keep in eye on your temps for a while!
Getting very quickly to 90°C and under load or while having fun constantly going very high means you are running too lean.
A lot of rumbling when letting og off the trottle or even loud bangs indicate your fuel mix is far too rich in the region of RPM.
If your rich fuel issue can’t be fixed over the TPM seonsor alone, and only then you should remove the restircors in the air box!
If you bike runs fine and not too rich with the restrictors in the airbox then please leave them as you have little to gain and a lot to lose.
There will be cases where some of will experience all sorts of error codes flashing when removing the throttle restriction and putting a nice slip on under.
If all is fine with the limiter in place and the TPS adjustments won’t help then you know for sure your ECU is one of the few that need remapping, the majority though will get away without.

I don’t thave the MT but….
As said, I can’t only speak about the MT with the BOSCH ECU and this useless switch for sports and eco mode.
If you have the type 7 Bosch ECU chances are you NK, GT or wahtever will respond quite similar but I can’t tell about the fuel mapping and O2 sensors.

In Australia, we get the medium height screen, which I like most of the time. We don’t have dirty air like some places in China, so I prefer to get some air at chest to visor level in warm to hot weather but need protection when it rains or is cold.

The medium screen works well until you get a head wind, at which point there is some buffeting and I need to move below the screen. I don’t want the higher touring screen discussed on this forum because I want air most of the time (8 months out of 12). I can’t get the high screen in Oz anyway, so I came up with a workaround. It is a windscreen spoiler that can be adjusted.

The screen extends the height of the medium screen by 2 to 6 inches (50 to 150mm). I can direct it so that I get air in my face in the summer if I want to, or I can set it to be similar to the medium screen for touring or higher for bad weather. Being adjustable gives me more options than owning two fixed screens. The disadvantage is that it is expensive because it is manufactured in Europe. The screen is available in clear or tinted; I prefer clear because it matches the standard screen.

Get it here:

X-creen – MRA Motorcycle Windshields – MRA-Klement GmbH

The EBC Street Racer Clutch Set (SRC Series) comes with a complete engine set of Kevlar lined friction plates and heavy duty clutch springs (excluding bikes with diaphragm style springs).

The SRC and SRK clutches “Take up” faster than Cork plates, and you should familiarize yourself with the new clutch feel before returning the bike to the shop.

Get it here:

C.F.MOTO 650 TK 12 Clutch Kit – EBC SRC Series Parts at Wemoto – The UK’s No.1 On-Line Motorcycle Parts Retailer

This new DNA Filter was created in collaboration with DNA Distributor KENMA AUSTRALIA PTY LTD.
DNA’s advanced FCd is used in this new filter.
Installation instructions are included.
With 4 layers of DNA Cotton, the filtering efficiency is extremely high at 98-99% (ISO 5011).
This DNA Fcd filter has a high flow rate, 33.90% higher than the Suzuki stock paper filter!
The flow rate of the DNA Fcd air filter is 155.70 CFM (Cubic feet per minute) @1.5 “Correction for H2O at 25 degrees Celsius.
CF 116.30 CFM (Cubic feet per minute) @1.5 “Correction for H2O at 25 degrees Celsius.
This DNA filter is intended for use as a high flow filter on and off the road.

Get it here:

CF Moto 650 Series (16-22) DNA Air Filter P-CF6N14-01 – OEM Air Filter Part Number: 0700-111100 – CFM-650 – DNA Filters – Product Details

Because of its innovative and simple design, the CF Moto 650MT SHAD top box fitting kit allows riders to easily mount a top box to the rear of their motorcycle.

The fitting kit attaches to the tail of the bike, where the SHAD mounting plate (included with a SHAD top box – except TR37/TR48) sits securely on top, making it easy to attach and remove a SHAD top box.

Features
Specifically designed for the CF Moto 650MT
Long-lasting black powder-coated finish
Includes complete installation instructions.
Manufacturer’s Warranty: 2 Years

Get it here:

1 new message (bikeluggage.co.uk)

It could not be simpler to install a fender eliminator. It’s a simple way to give your motorcycle a sleek and stylish look.

Xitomer sells the CFMoto fender eliminator kit, which is made of durable powder coated aluminum and allows you to securely install your license plate. You don’t have to worry about being safe because the kits come with or without a tail reflector. Xitomer also offers fender eliminator kits with or without a tail reflector.

The primary function is to clean up the motorcycle’s rear end by removing the unsightly and bulky stock plate holder. As well as concealed mounting and lighting. This plug-and-play unit will neatly clean the plate under your bike’s rear seat.

Features:

Durable black powder coat on a black anodized 3mm 5052-T6 aluminum license plate frame.
The light housing houses an LED license plate light.
Reuse both stock and aftermarket turn signals and blinkers (10mm).
Whether equipped with or without a tail reflector (The reflector length can be adjusted depended on your license plate.)
The hardware is all 304 stainless steel.
The plate is compatible with all license plates from various countries.

Get it here:

Fender Eliminator For CFMoto 650NK/NKS 400NK/NKS | Xitomer