Engine and transmission

Displacement649.3 ccm (39.62 cubic inches)
Engine typeTwin, four-stroke
Engine detailsFull alloy nickel silicon carbide cylinder
Power61.7 HP (45.0 kW)) @ 9000 RPM
Torque58.5 Nm (6.0 kgf-m or 43.1 ft.lbs) @ 7000 RPM
Max RPM10000
Bore x stroke83.0 x 60.0 mm (3.3 x 2.4 inches)
Valves per cylinder4
Fuel systemInjection. Bosch EFI
Fuel controlDouble Overhead Cams/Twin Cam (DOHC)
Cooling systemLiquid
Transmission typeChain   (final drive)
ClutchWet, multiplate
Emission detailsEuro 4

Chassis, suspension, brakes and wheels

Frame typeTubular steel, diamond
Front suspensionKYB, 41mm telescopic forks, non adjustable
Front wheel travel140 mm (5.5 inches)
Rear suspensionExtruded steel swingarm with tubular steel bracing, cantilever KYB monoshock (max. travel 45mm)
Rear wheel travel145 mm (5.7 inches)
Front tire120/70-17
Rear tire160/60-17
Front brakesDouble disc. ABS
Diameter300 mm (11.8 inches)
Rear brakesSingle disc. ABS
Diameter240 mm (9.4 inches)
WheelsLight alloy rims. Metzeler Roadtec Z8 tires.


Physical measures and capacities

Dry weight226.0 kg (498.2 pounds)
Power/weight ratio0.2730 HP/kg
Seat height795 mm (31.3 inches) If adjustable, lowest setting.
Overall height1340 mm (52.8 inches)
Overall length2100 mm (82.7 inches)
Overall width784 mm (30.9 inches)
Ground clearance150 mm (5.9 inches)
Fuel capacity19.00 litres (5.02 US gallons)

Other specs

Color optionsStarlight White/Knight Black
InstrumentsColour dash
LightLED headlight
CommentsTouring and sport power modes. Windscreen. Chinese made bike.


Engine oil w/o filter:
2,0 L SAE 15W-40
Engine oil with filter:
Brake fluid:
19,0 LITER
*Always verify maintenance and service data with the bike owner’s manual.

Get your parts with free shipping and no restock fees from REVZILLA.COM
  • Compact exhaust
  • Value for money
  • Comfort
  • Brakes
  • Range
  • No option to restrict for the A2 licence
  • No traction or cruise control
  • On the heavy side


Private Price Guide
Price as new


CFMoto’s new 650GT demonstrates that Chinese-made motorcycles have matured. It’s nicely polished, has a lot of fancy features, is comfortable, easy to manage, quick, and utilitarian, but its soft suspension setup and limited seat room make it unsuitable for real luggage-laden, two-up touring.

Its main selling point is its low price, but is this enough of a discount over its more established Japanese competitors? Yes, if you’re on a tight budget, but pay a bit extra and you’ll get a more polished machine with more poise and fun peppiness.

CFMOTO 650 GT Review

Ride Quality / Brakes

The CFMoto isn’t light, weighing a stated 226kg (not counting the extra Shad heavy panniers seen in the photos) – 30kg more than a Tracer 700 and 33kg more than a Ninja 650. The most of the weight is felt when walking, but it’s manageable throughout town and has no negative impact on handling.

It’s always stable and easy to steer, and because to its natural bar and peg position and padded seat, it’s also comfortable over long distances. Metzeler sports touring tyres are a generation old and take a while to warm up in the cold, but once warmed up, they provide excellent wet and dry traction.

The 650GT’s suspension is well-controlled for single riding, and there’s plenty of ground clearance, but if you press on, it’s simple to get it to fling shapes in the corners. Brakes offer adequate power but require a strong squeeze to get them to work. However, for the type of riding it is intended for, it handles well, corners and stops confidently.

Loading it will be a different story, and its soft rear shock will struggle to maintain its shape when a pillion and luggage are added. Pillions will fit, but there won’t be much room for true two-up comfort.


The CFMoto rides quite nicely. Under heavy acceleration, a deep, gurgling induction growl keeps your ears intrigued, the six-speed transmission is lovely, and it’s 115mph-fast when you tease the ER-6-esque 650cc parallel twin towards its 10,000rpm redline. The 60bhp small tourer, on the other hand, lacks middle energy and the sparkling, laugh-out-loud joy seen on the more free-revving 73bhp Tracer 700 and 67bhp Ninja 650.

The CFMoto, on the other hand, is unthreatening and comfortable to ride, with a pleasant power delivery (albeit the engine can sputter at very low rpm and when cold), a light clutch, throttle, and a low 795mm seat.

It gets 49mpg on average, which is comparable to Tracer 700s we’ve tested, so you should be able to get 205 miles out of the GT’s 19-litre tank.

CFMOTO 650 GT specs

Build Quality

Only time will tell how long the CFMoto will last after a winter, but the quality and finish on our new test bike appears decent, and Chinese engines have Terminator-like durability (it always used to be that the rest of the bike rotted around them). The 650GT also includes a two-year parts and labor guarantee.

Value For Money

The CFMoto 650GT is a genuine alternative to its Japanese counterparts in terms of value for money and overall friendliness, but if you’re looking for greater fun and performance, they still take the lead.

CFMOTO 650 GT test


Backlit switchgear, eh? There’s also a color dash…and LED headlights. There’s not much to be gained from riding a new bike in the dark for the first time, but the CFMoto 650GT is eager to impress.

It has a vital task to complete. This isn’t simply a mid-capacity ‘Grand Tourer,’ it’s a Chinese-made machine out to prove it can compete with the big boys, not just in terms of how it rides, but also in terms of how it’s built. And it needs to bring its A Game because, while it is less expensive than its closest competitors, the Yamaha Tracer 700 and Kawasaki Ninja 650, the pricing difference between China and Japan isn’t as wide as it previously was.

After another walk around the GT in the daytime, the good stuff just keeps coming. The 650GT has two power modes (Touring and Sport), petal-shaped front brake discs, J Juan calipers (check out their logo on the front of WSB champ, Jonathan Rea’s leathers, the next time you look), steel braided hoses, LED running lights, indicators and tail light, a manually adjustable screen, Metzeler Roadtec Z8 rubber and two power sockets (two USBs and a 12v) handily located on each side of the clocks.

If you don’t like the idea of traction control, your wish is granted: there are no rider aids other than ABS.

I reside in China and chose this motorcycle because Japanese bikes are three times the price they should be; it’s styled by Kiska as part of a KTM collaboration; and the engine is essentially a Chinese-made ER6N. Here’s the good, the terrible, and the ugly after 7,000 kilometers of everyday cycling.

The good: – It looks good – The paint is good – It comes with panniers – It has a USB and a 12v output
– KYB shocks, albeit the most affordable kind – Bosch ECU and injectors – Juan brakes with Continental ABS

The bad -Chain and sprockets are terrible, replaced after 5,000kms and again at 6,500kms with AFAM sprockets and DID VX3 chain -windscreen rattles and vibrates, solved by replacing it with an aftermarket upgrade -fuel economy is nowhere near claimed range, you’ll never see the figures stated – almost no aftermarket support – brakes aren’t sufficient, upgrades are required – fixtures and fittings aren’ They create more problems than they solve.

After 5,500 kilometers, the cylinder head assembly needed to be replaced. Warranty is provided.
– At 7,000 kilometers, both the clutch bearing and the clutch must be replaced.
– At 7,000 miles, the exhaust manifold gaskets must be replaced.
– Chinese technicians and dealership service are absolutely inadequate – ECU had to be sent to the factory for reflashing, which took 12 days.

If you have an option, acquire a Japanese motorcycle. Only buy these if you’re on a tight budget or have no other options.

Thank you for your time.


With the Smart-Tune-X performance chip, you can boost the performance level potential of your CF Moto 650NK and say goodbye to lean factory programming. Our CF Moto 650NK fuel programmer will increase pony by 17% across the entire RPM range while decreasing fuel consumption. This remapper chip connects to the ECM via the engine sensors and calibrates the most accurate fuel tune. A massive amount of potential horsepower lurks in your engine, just waiting to be unleashed with our Smart-Tune-X fuel programmer. With the Smart-Tune-X fuel tuner, you can put an end to the restrictive stock settings.

Get it here:

CF Moto 650NK MAGNUM Smart-Tune Motorcycle Fuel Tuner Performance Module (magnumtuning.com)

GPR Cf Moto 650 NK 2021-2022 CF.2CAT.GPAN.BLT

GPR line homologated for Cf Moto 650 NK 2021-2022.
It comes with everything you need to install it on your bike without making any modifications.
Approval in Europe and Switzerland (CEE).
The catalyst is already present.
It comes with a detachable Db-Killer.
Made entirely in Italy.
Warranty period of two years.

Get it here:

Exhaust GPR Cf Moto 650 NK 2021-2022 (m4tuning.com)

When I got my bike I thought that for a LAMS bike it has an awful lot of power.
Cerainly enough to get a leaner into deep troubles.
But then a again I have my license for over 30 years now, so….

Unlike the previous CF650 models there now is a proper Bosch ECU ticking under the seat, bye bye Ducati….
Now, just to be clear here: I am talking about the CF6503 model, the MT with the Bosch cf650-7 ECU.
If yours is different thinks might not work as I experienced them, so beware of this little detail.

Calling one official dealer after the other I got very mixed responses.
Most simply say that they don’t have the eqippment to derestirct the bike, some say I would need a new ECU.
However, the few that are actually open to this or sell the unrestricted version alongside the LAMS bike say different things.
Appearnetly there is ECU flashing done for the LAMS bikes.
Instead they come with a throttle limiter and in some case different O2 sensors.
The actual limiting is done mostly by the TPS sensor readings and two restrictors in the air box.
With those changes the connected laptop does not a reflash but a reset of ECU parameters.
The Bosch system inside the ECU does the rest based on the fuel maps.

Ok, but I did not understand a single word….
It besically means that for the normal operating parameters the ECU already has what it needs to make the bike run at full power.

There are some downsides though that I will explain while I go along.
In most cases we want not just more power but also a new exhaust so our bike does not look like every other one.
And, no surpise, a slip on does not cause any error codes to flash on your dash.
But remove this limiter and sooner or later you see it blinking.
What happened?
The bike runs better with the slip on but also has far less back pressure now, means it can breathe out easier.
As a result the O2 sensor can’t really find a suitable match and causes the eCU to go into limb home mode.
Turn the bike off for a moment or start it again the next day and enjoy awesome power once more until it starts blinking.
Now the obvious solutions it to remove the restrictors for the airbox now.
And suddenly you get even more error codes, more troubles….
Sounds familiar? LOL
Now why would fixing one issue cuase a whole heap of new ones??

Consider the fuel mapping in the ECU !
It relies on input from our sensors to provide a match.
Toss it too far either way and there isn’t anything defined – hence the need for a decent re-mapping or unristricted ECU – or maybe not?
If the are not really flashed with anything to limit the power then why would we need something like a flash to get it going??
As said, there is two types of O2 sensors available to fit, if you get constant O2 errors then simply replace your AU type sensore with the standard, international one from Alibaba or so.
The “limited” O2 sensor simply won’t provide an output for the higher flow rates but the fuel mapping goes a good bit further ;)
The real culprit is quite often the TPS sensor on the left side of the throttle body.
For obvious reasons it will be adjusted to best suit the little metal thingy stopping our throttle.
On the plug, if you look at it while connected to the sensor, the left wire is ground, the middle one is your signal.
With the ignition on and the throttle at idle you should get a reading of 0.4 to 0.65 Volt here.
At full throttle you should not get more than 3.4 Volt!!!
Ideally you want 0.4V at idle and just around 3.2V at full throttle.
Like that your ECO should no longer throw out error codes.
If you start this procedure while already having ongoing error codes it is best to diconnect the battery for a while and to start from scratch.
Don’t scream!!! I mean by only allowing ONE mod to be present when you start the bike up ;)
If that does not give you errors on a test ride go ahead, otherwise keep returning to stock until the rrors are gone or until you found the faulty sensor!!

How do I adjust the TPS senosor if I can’t match both end values?
Again, keep the fuel mapping in mind!
How does the TPS readin correspond to the fuel mix?
Right! The more you open the throttle the more fuel you get.
And that ratio MUST match what the O2 sensor reading provide.
If any of these three values go outside specs in the fuel mapping, trouble will follow.
So if in doubt prefer a richer mix at the top end over one that is too lean.
You can get away with wasting fuel but not with exceeding operating temps in your cylinder and head ;)
A few possible examples to make the decision easier:
I means idel, F means full throttle for the gas grip ;)
and the reading are in Volt of course.

I : 0.9V F : 2.8V
You have a clear problem with your TPS sensor if you have the limiter removed for these values.
I suggest to try a new TPS senors first as these values are outside of what can be adjusted.
I : 0.3V F : 3.2V
Try to adjust the sensor so you get 0.4 to 0.42V at idle.
If the full value is still below 3.4V then leave it.
I : 0.3V F : 3.4V
Here you don’t want to change anthing unless you get errors.
Problem is that you will need to fiddle around for a while to check if lowering the vlaues cures the error or if you can go over the 3.4V to allow for a richer fuel mix the lower end.
Usually if you errors start when you really crank it up you want to go lower and if you get errors from idele to lower mid range you want to go up.
I : 0.6V F : 3.7V
You won’t see these too often but if you do and you get no errors then be happy.
If you do get errors you should lower the values to get at least under 3.4V for full.

I think you got the general idea now.
Once this works without errors you can try to allow for you other mods again, one by one.
There is an awful lot of 650’s out there that won’t require a remapping or complete flash!
But if you opt for more than what the international model has by default you have to consider a remap !

Your bike was running fine and with no errors being stock standard.
This is what I always have to assume first here!
And if a simple slip on already created errors I would recommend checking if leaving the baffles and silencers in works ;)
Because if it does it means your slip on won’t provide the required back pressure.
There is ways to address this but that’s another topic.
So we agreed on these terms and say your trouble started after removing the limiter.
Check the TPS readings and if not within 0.4 and 3.4 adjust the seonsor accordingly, if that does give usuable readings consider replacing the sensor.
With all fine on the TPS and still errors flashing that won’t stop after disconnecting the battery:
How do your O2 senors look?
If black or covered in a fine layer layer of crap please replace if your error codes indiacte overheating or O2 problems.
In case the O2 sensor is not the problem keep in eye on your temps for a while!
Getting very quickly to 90°C and under load or while having fun constantly going very high means you are running too lean.
A lot of rumbling when letting og off the trottle or even loud bangs indicate your fuel mix is far too rich in the region of RPM.
If your rich fuel issue can’t be fixed over the TPM seonsor alone, and only then you should remove the restircors in the air box!
If you bike runs fine and not too rich with the restrictors in the airbox then please leave them as you have little to gain and a lot to lose.
There will be cases where some of will experience all sorts of error codes flashing when removing the throttle restriction and putting a nice slip on under.
If all is fine with the limiter in place and the TPS adjustments won’t help then you know for sure your ECU is one of the few that need remapping, the majority though will get away without.

I don’t thave the MT but….
As said, I can’t only speak about the MT with the BOSCH ECU and this useless switch for sports and eco mode.
If you have the type 7 Bosch ECU chances are you NK, GT or wahtever will respond quite similar but I can’t tell about the fuel mapping and O2 sensors.

In Australia, we get the medium height screen, which I like most of the time. We don’t have dirty air like some places in China, so I prefer to get some air at chest to visor level in warm to hot weather but need protection when it rains or is cold.

The medium screen works well until you get a head wind, at which point there is some buffeting and I need to move below the screen. I don’t want the higher touring screen discussed on this forum because I want air most of the time (8 months out of 12). I can’t get the high screen in Oz anyway, so I came up with a workaround. It is a windscreen spoiler that can be adjusted.

The screen extends the height of the medium screen by 2 to 6 inches (50 to 150mm). I can direct it so that I get air in my face in the summer if I want to, or I can set it to be similar to the medium screen for touring or higher for bad weather. Being adjustable gives me more options than owning two fixed screens. The disadvantage is that it is expensive because it is manufactured in Europe. The screen is available in clear or tinted; I prefer clear because it matches the standard screen.

Get it here:

X-creen – MRA Motorcycle Windshields – MRA-Klement GmbH

Picture of C.F.MOTO 650 TK 12 Clutch Kit - EBC SRC Series

The EBC Street Racer Clutch Set (SRC Series) comes with a complete engine set of Kevlar lined friction plates and heavy duty clutch springs (excluding bikes with diaphragm style springs).

The SRC and SRK clutches “Take up” faster than Cork plates, and you should familiarize yourself with the new clutch feel before returning the bike to the shop.

Get it here:

C.F.MOTO 650 TK 12 Clutch Kit – EBC SRC Series Parts at Wemoto – The UK’s No.1 On-Line Motorcycle Parts Retailer

This new DNA Filter was created in collaboration with DNA Distributor KENMA AUSTRALIA PTY LTD.
DNA’s advanced FCd is used in this new filter.
Installation instructions are included.
With 4 layers of DNA Cotton, the filtering efficiency is extremely high at 98-99% (ISO 5011).
This DNA Fcd filter has a high flow rate, 33.90% higher than the Suzuki stock paper filter!
The flow rate of the DNA Fcd air filter is 155.70 CFM (Cubic feet per minute) @1.5 “Correction for H2O at 25 degrees Celsius.
CF 116.30 CFM (Cubic feet per minute) @1.5 “Correction for H2O at 25 degrees Celsius.
This DNA filter is intended for use as a high flow filter on and off the road.

Get it here:

CF Moto 650 Series (16-22) DNA Air Filter P-CF6N14-01 – OEM Air Filter Part Number: 0700-111100 – CFM-650 – DNA Filters – Product Details

Because of its innovative and simple design, the CF Moto 650MT SHAD top box fitting kit allows riders to easily mount a top box to the rear of their motorcycle.

The fitting kit attaches to the tail of the bike, where the SHAD mounting plate (included with a SHAD top box – except TR37/TR48) sits securely on top, making it easy to attach and remove a SHAD top box.

Specifically designed for the CF Moto 650MT
Long-lasting black powder-coated finish
Includes complete installation instructions.
Manufacturer’s Warranty: 2 Years

Get it here:

1 new message (bikeluggage.co.uk)

It could not be simpler to install a fender eliminator. It’s a simple way to give your motorcycle a sleek and stylish look.

Xitomer sells the CFMoto fender eliminator kit, which is made of durable powder coated aluminum and allows you to securely install your license plate. You don’t have to worry about being safe because the kits come with or without a tail reflector. Xitomer also offers fender eliminator kits with or without a tail reflector.

The primary function is to clean up the motorcycle’s rear end by removing the unsightly and bulky stock plate holder. As well as concealed mounting and lighting. This plug-and-play unit will neatly clean the plate under your bike’s rear seat.


Durable black powder coat on a black anodized 3mm 5052-T6 aluminum license plate frame.
The light housing houses an LED license plate light.
Reuse both stock and aftermarket turn signals and blinkers (10mm).
Whether equipped with or without a tail reflector (The reflector length can be adjusted depended on your license plate.)
The hardware is all 304 stainless steel.
The plate is compatible with all license plates from various countries.

Get it here:

Fender Eliminator For CFMoto 650NK/NKS 400NK/NKS | Xitomer


Brake feel, ABS response and emergency brake response
brakes 60%
Seat comfort, driving position and rider ergonomics
comfort 78%
Engine responsiveness, feel of acceleration and power
engine 59%
driving experience for short and long trips
driving 73%
design and appearance compared to similar models
design 75%
price as new (or used) compared to similiar models
price 40%


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*All motorcycle specifications (also called SPECS) on our pages are provided by the respective manufacturers.

**Motobase reccomends to install your tuning parts and modifications only at authorized workshops.